|
|
Line 1: |
Line 1: |
− | The speaker on my BCD 396 went dead, and I decided to replace it myself. I obtained a replacement speaker from [http://www.techcomm.ca/ Techcomm International] in Oakville, Ontario and proceeded to install it. The steps I followed are outlined below.
| |
| | | |
− | Note: Opening the 396 to replace the speaker on your own may invalidate your warranty. Proceed at your own risk.
| |
− |
| |
− | Tools Required: #0 Phillips Screwdriver, Soldering Iron, Small Utility Knife
| |
− |
| |
− | 1. Remove the battery cover and 3 batteries from the rear of the unit.
| |
− |
| |
− | 2. Remove the 4 screws located on the back cover, and the 2 screws located within the battery compartment
| |
− |
| |
− | 3. Separate the rear cover by pulling it straight back from the main unit. You may have to wiggle it a bit to free it up, since the rubber “Menu/Function” and “A/C Adapter” covers are partly form-fitted into this half of the rear plastic cover.
| |
− |
| |
− | 4. Laying the unit down on its’ front, remove the 6 screws holding the two interior circuit boards to the front of the unit.
| |
− |
| |
− | 5. After removing the 6 circuit board screws, carefully separate the boards from the front of the unit and lay them on a flat surface, sandwich-style, to allow you to work on the speaker, which is attached to the front cover.
| |
− |
| |
− | 6. Be aware the two circuit boards are wired together… Be careful not to separate any wires as you are handling the disassembled unit.
| |
− |
| |
− | At this point, note the white wire is connected to the positive speaker terminal and the grey wire is connected to the negative speaker terminal.
| |
− |
| |
− | 7. Use the soldering iron to free the speaker leads from the speaker. Don’t apply the hot iron for very long; about a half-to-one second contact should free the speaker leads. Detach the leads from the speaker.
| |
− |
| |
− | 8. My old speaker was a press fit into the speaker slot, but was secured by 2 fold-over plastic tabs and a small amount of a silicone-type glue. I used the soldering iron to “melt” back the securing plastic tabs, and the utility knife to cut a ring around the silicone-type glue (around the speaker circumference) to free the speaker from the enclosure. It did require a bit of careful prying from the case to finally pop free.
| |
− |
| |
− | 9. Install the new speaker in the speaker slot, and using the soldering iron, melt a bit of the plastic tabs back over the rear of the speaker. There was a bit of the silicone-type glue still left on the speaker enclosure, and this insured a tight press-fit into the speaker slot.
| |
− |
| |
− | 10. Re-solder the connections to the new speaker; white wire to positive, grey wire to negative. Again, no more than a half-second to a second contact with the soldering iron should secure the speaker connections.
| |
− |
| |
− | 11. Re-assemble the unit with these caveats (“Gotcha’s”) in mind:
| |
− |
| |
− | a. Make sure the speaker wires are properly nestled between the “tabs” in the enclosure. This prevents any catching of the leads when re-assembling the unit. See the pic.
| |
− |
| |
− | b. Make sure the rubber “Function/Menu” and “A/C Adapter” rubber covers are properly inserted into the rear and front covers before attaching the rear cover to the rest of the unit.
| |
− |
| |
− | Total time for the installation was about 20 minutes, not counting camera set-up time. Here is a gallery of photos - click on the desired image to enlarge it.
| |
− |
| |
− | <gallery>
| |
− | image:BCD396photo1.jpg|BCD396 with rear cover removed
| |
− | image:BD396photo2.jpg|BCD396 with circuit board removed
| |
− | image:Bcd396photo3.jpg|BCD396 opened to access speaker
| |
− | image:Bcd396photo4.jpg|BCD396 insert new speaker
| |
− | image:Bcd396photo5.jpg|BCD396 new speaker in; watch wiring
| |
− | </gallery>
| |
− |
| |
− | Hope this helps anyone who decides to replace their own 396 speaker.
| |
− |
| |
− | <small> thanks to olex126 for this procedure</small>
| |